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¡á About the Publication

 

Magazine B is an ad-free monthly publication that dedicates each issue to one well-balanced brand unearthed from around the globe. The magazine introduces the brand¡¯s hidden stories, as well as its sensibility and culture, and is an easy but also serious read for anyone with an interest in brands.

 

 

¡á About the Issue

 

Welcome to the 96th issue of B.

 

Back in 2018, when B revisited Seoul, the capital city of Korea, to put out a second edition, we talked about what city would be the best for the city issue besides Seoul. Many of our editors—including me—thought of Busan, the second largest city in Korea, and Jejudo Island for its breathtaking natural landscapes. Five years later, we wound up doing an issue that features Busan. Of course, we were drawn to Jejudo Island because it embodies the idea of rest and relaxation, but truthfully, we were more curious about Busan¡¯s many faces beyond the beaches and tourism. I myself visit the coastal city every year and always feel like moving there whenever I go, so it is obvious that the port city 400 km south of Seoul has some kind of magnetic allure.

 

Each time I arrive at Busan Station and taxi to Haeundae to get settled in—I¡¯ve done this so many times I don¡¯t dare to even try to count—I find myself mesmerized by the landscape of the piers as I look out the car window. Not until rows of shipping containersand towering cranes catch my eyes do I feel like, ¡®Ah! Finally, I¡¯m in Busan.¡¯ It feels like passing through immigration. Maybe because of the unique layout of port cities, I have always assumed that Busan was bigger than Seoul. Maybe it is the impression that you can only get from the second- or the third-largest cities. Apparently, it is the norm that the nation¡¯s largest city—the capital city in an administrative and economic sense—naturally chases ideas like ¡°global standards¡± and ¡°cosmopolitanism.¡± Despite the never-ending changes inarchitecture, culture, and commercial districts that seem to pop up overnight, capital cities always feel rather mediocre when all things are said and done. That might explain why I have recently heard globe-trotters grumbling that there is nothing special out there. Everything is already in Seoul.

 

But Busan has staved off this rather imminent phenomenon of standardization. Of course, the city boasts a good number of flagship stores by globalbrands, inventive and fancy restaurants, and uniform- like styles that hipsters wear, but these elements

do not shape the visitor¡¯s impression of the city. Rather, Busan¡¯s cultural elements—embedded in the clothing, food, and architecture—forge a distinctive locality in its raw state, emerging through the cracks between the well-developed infrastructure that is essential for a big city to survive. The essence of Busan that B captured for this issue also centers on the people, the products, and the companies that add contemporary twists to local tradition. From Momos Coffee¡¯s Jooyeon Jeon, who triumphantly sprang up from the local specialty coffee scene and on to the global stage; and Balansa, a fashion brand whose contemporary chicness is no less superb than Seoul- born rivals; to Gentz Bakery, which strives to retaina sense of ¡°Koreanness.¡± All these players generated cultlike followings locally and received offers to expand to Seoul. (Usually, it happens the other way around.) In a city where not even one of Korea¡¯s top 100 companies has its headquarters, it is a feat thatlocally grown creativity translates to business acumen, resulting in phenomenal success.

 

The potential of Busan, I opine, lies with innovative small business owners, though they are wildly outnumbered by their counterparts in Seoul. Indeed, the Busanites B met say that the city¡¯s potential isin the hands of the people who grew up in Busan,far from Seoul and close to the door to the outside world. Busan has constantly grappled with internal and external forces due to its geographical position and historical events, like outsiders coming and going, refugees from the Korean War rushing in. Even still, it seems that Busan has the most fertile soil to cultivate new contemporary ideas. This may be why I as a land dweller, born and raised in Seoul, always envy people who live near water—and where they come together, in Busan.

 

Eunsung Park

 

Editor in Chief

 

 







 




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¹è¼Û´©¶ô ¹× ¹è¼ÛÁöº¯°æ   °í°´¼¾ÅÍ·Î ¹®ÀÇ ¹Ù¶ø´Ï´Ù. (¢Ï 02) 6412-0125 / nice@nicebook.kr)





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¸Å°ÅÁøB (¿µ¹®ÆÇ) Magazine B, ¸Å°ÅÁøºñ - 2022. 02                    




 

¡á Table of contents

 

02 INTRO

 

08 EDITOR'S LETTER

 

12 PERSONAL ARCHIVES

Hints of Christophe Lemaire and Sarah- Linh Tran¡¯s creativity found in their work spaces

 

20 IN MARAIS

The Lemaire headquarters blends into the Marais, a historic district in Paris

 

24 SMALL TALK

People at Lemaire affirm their personal beliefs about clothing and the brand¡¯s unwavering trajectory

 

32 INTERVIEW: CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE & SARAH-LINH TRAN

Co-creative directors of Lemaire

 

38 ON-SITE WORKSHOP

Lemaire¡¯s in-house atelier materializes the brand¡¯s design universe

 

42 LEMAIRE WARDROBE

Lemaire¡¯s iconic style imbues the brand¡¯s shirts, jackets, overcoats, and other essential items

 

48 UNDERSTATEMENT

Delicate design language expressed through colors, materials, silhouettes, and other details

 

58 OPINION: ANJA ARONOWSKY CRONBERG

Fashion journalist Anja Aronowsky Cronberg attests that Lemaire provides physical and mental comfort through its clothes

 

64 DEFINITE

The unique perspectives of Lemaire brand fans who refuse to compare themselves with others

 

88 AT THE BOUTIQUE

Lemaire boutiques reflect the brand¡¯s comfortable and calm mood

 

92 CRAFT PARTNERS

The brand expands its aesthetic domain through ingenious partnerships with artisans and artists

 

102 OPINION: SONYA DYAKOVA

Graphic designer Sonya Dyakova says that the allure of Lemaire is that it has created its own narrative by incorporating cultural elements in fashion

 

108 IN THE COLLECTIONS

Impressive Lemaire collections created in collaboration with outside creators

 

122 INDIVIDUALS

Strong personalities who have appeared on Lemaire runways

 

128 ESSAYS

Thoughts on the charms of Lemaire as everyday wear that is anything but mundane

 

131 AN OPTICAL POEM

Lemaire¡¯s color palette reflects light, shadow, and nature

 

140 BRAND STORY

How Lemaire grew while concentrating on creating styles rather than fashion

 

150 INSPIRATIONS

Music, films, books, and architecture that inspire the Lemaire designer duo

 

155 OUTRO


 














 



[ºê·£µå´ÙÅ¥¸àÅ͸®] BUSAN (¿µ¹®)

  2023³â 09¿ù



Back
in 2018, when B revisited Seoul, the capital city of Korea, to put out a second
edition, we talked about what city would be the best for the city issue besides
Seoul. Many of our editors—including me—thought of Busan, the second largest
city in Korea, and Jejudo Island for its breathtaking natural landscapes. Five
years later, we wound up doing an issue that features Busan. Of course, we were
drawn to Jejudo Island because it embodies the idea of rest and relaxation, but
truthfully, we were more curious about Busan¡¯s many faces beyond the beaches
and tourism. I myself visit the coastal city every year and always feel like
moving there whenever I go, so it is obvious that the port city 400 km south of
Seoul has some kind of magnetic allure.



 



Each
time I arrive at Busan Station and taxi to Haeundae to get settled in—I¡¯ve done
this so many times I don¡¯t dare to even try to count—I find myself mesmerized
by the landscape of the piers as I look out the car window. Not until rows of
shipping containersand towering cranes catch my eyes do I feel like, ¡®Ah!
Finally, I¡¯m in Busan.¡¯ It feels like passing through immigration. Maybe
because of the unique layout of port cities, I have always assumed that Busan
was bigger than Seoul. Maybe it is the impression that you can only get from
the second- or the third-largest cities. Apparently, it is the norm that the
nation¡¯s largest city—the capital city in an administrative and economic
sense—naturally chases ideas like ¡°global standards¡± and ¡°cosmopolitanism.¡±
Despite the never-ending changes inarchitecture, culture, and commercial
districts that seem to pop up overnight, capital cities always feel rather
mediocre when all things are said and done. That might explain why I have
recently heard globe-trotters grumbling that there is nothing special out
there. Everything is already in Seoul.



 



But
Busan has staved off this rather imminent phenomenon of standardization. Of
course, the city boasts a good number of flagship stores by globalbrands, inventive
and fancy restaurants, and uniform- like styles that hipsters wear, but these
elements



do
not shape the visitor¡¯s impression of the city. Rather, Busan¡¯s cultural
elements—embedded in the clothing, food, and architecture—forge a distinctive
locality in its raw state, emerging through the cracks between the
well-developed infrastructure that is essential for a big city to survive. The
essence of Busan that B captured for this issue also centers on the people, the
products, and the companies that add contemporary twists to local tradition.
From Momos Coffee¡¯s Jooyeon Jeon, who triumphantly sprang up from the local
specialty coffee scene and on to the global stage; and Balansa, a fashion brand
whose contemporary chicness is no less superb than Seoul- born rivals; to Gentz
Bakery, which strives to retaina sense of ¡°Koreanness.¡± All these players
generated cultlike followings locally and received offers to expand to Seoul.
(Usually, it happens the other way around.) In a city where not even one of
Korea¡¯s top 100 companies has its headquarters, it is a feat thatlocally grown
creativity translates to business acumen, resulting in phenomenal success.



 



The
potential of Busan, I opine, lies with innovative small business owners, though
they are wildly outnumbered by their counterparts in Seoul. Indeed, the
Busanites B met say that the city¡¯s potential isin the hands of the people who
grew up in Busan,far from Seoul and close to the door to the outside world.
Busan has constantly grappled with internal and external forces due to its
geographical position and historical events, like outsiders coming and going,
refugees from the Korean War rushing in. Even still, it seems that Busan has
the most fertile soil to cultivate new contemporary ideas. This may be why I as
a land dweller, born and raised in Seoul, always envy people who live near
water—and where they come together, in Busan.














 





[ºê·£µå´ÙÅ¥¸àÅ͸®] BUSAN (¿µ¹®)

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[ºê·£µå´ÙÅ¥¸àÅ͸®] ARC¡¯TERYX (¿µ¹®)

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Benoît Astier de Villatte

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